Milan Fashion Week began with a lunch hosted by Italy’s prime minister, Matteo Renzi, and transitioned last night to a parade of broad-shouldered babes at Dsquared2. In between, there were shows focused on classicism (see: Bottega Veneta) and imbued with the heightened production values of Broadway (Dolce & Gabbana), while the streets were overrun with It girls in the latest It trends, from Prada’s omnipresent corsets to Gucci’s flare-shoulder tops. A lot to take in? You bet. We distilled the first five days of shows in Milan into the most important news to know here.
How Showy Should a Fashion Show Be?
Spectacle has been on the rise in fashion for several seasons, but things reached a peak in Milan. Dolce & Gabbana transformed its presentation into a full-on production featuring dancers, models, and faux palm trees, while Gucci dialed things up to 11 courtesy of a pink room decked out in more than 250,000 sequins. How to top that kind of wow factor? Ask Philipp Plein, who announced that he will be moving his show to New York with a carnival Tilt-A-Whirl, a performance by Fergie, and a Paris Hilton appearance.
Supermodels Make a Super Return to the Runway
Naomi Campbell! Carmen Kass! Lauren Hutton! The crop of top models that appeared in Milan was the best in years. The parade of catwalk stars began at Prada, where Mrs. P enlisted the likes of Liya Kebede and Raquel Zimmermann to show off her retro-futurist wares. Then came Versace’s glamazons led by Campbell, Kass, and Mariacarla Boscono, only to be followed up by Bottega Veneta’s showstopping moment with Lauren Hutton, who walked the runway carrying the same clutch she toted in American Gigolo.
Insta Stars Take the Front Row at Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana’s front row was a who’s who of millennial teens. Lucky Blue Smith posed with his sisters; Luka Sabbat preened with some grapes; and Sofia Richie smiled in a bra top. The real question isn’t whether these teenagers are influential—that’s obvious, no?—but whether you can actually name them all. Here’s to trying!
Dsquared2 Is Ditching the Traditional Format
Dsquared2’s pouf-sleeved womenswear show will be its last—at Milan Fashion Week, that is. Dean and Dan Caten have opted to combine their menswear and womenswear collections into a single show presented during men’s weeks. The rationale? Menswear accounts for 60 percent of their business, and as Dean told Vogue.com’s Luke Leitch, “You know, there are 10 collections a year right now, and we aren’t 19 anymore. We can’t keep up! I wish there was two more of us!”
Are Tennis Stars Fashion’s New Favorites?
Novak Djokovic was spotted in the front row at Giorgio Armani with his wife, Jelena, and fellow tennis ace Serena Williams made several other front row stops in Milan, Gucci and Versace included. Watch out, NBA stars—tennis players might be fashion’s new favorite athletes.
Politics Mixes With Fashion at Home and Abroad
Prime Minister Matteo Renzi has hosted a welcome lunch for Milan Fashion Week two seasons running, making him well-known among the fashion crowd. While the chances of America’s next leader appearing at a Fashion Week luncheon are slim, the turmoil in the States over the election was felt on the runways in Italy. Donatella Versace started her show with a call to arms for women in the form of DJ Violet’s soundtrack that proclaimed, “If we do nothing, we get nothing.”